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Pet Care Professionals: Presenting a Professional Image – #2

A few weeks ago I was at the Atlanta Pet Fair. I always love this show. For me – it’s typically the first big show of the season. I get to see all my fellow pet professional friends and acquaintances. The trade show floor is always busy. I always have a great turn out at my lectures. And the competition ring is packed. This year was no different.

One thing I really noticed this year was how pet professionals represented themselves. I saw both good and bad – tasteful to tacky – and everything in-between.

One of my favorites was the cute little blond with her hair neatly pulled back in a stylish side ponytail wearing the little black hair-repellant dress in the contest ring. Her make-up was light yet very tastefully done. Her shoes matched. And she accessorized just enough to be elegant but not overdone. Or the young man in the ring. He was impeccably groomed himself right down to the matching bow tie. Both of these competitors where in my novice level class this weekend. I was so proud of the way they represented our industry. I would take my own dogs to them in a heartbeat.

I observed hundreds of people over the weekend. Unfortunately, I couldn’t say that about everyone. Even pet professionals I know and respect greatly, totally caught me off guard.

Folks – HELLO… If you want to be respected as a “professional” you have to act the part whenever you are in the public.

All. The. Time. Period.

I think it’s time to pull this blog back out for a reminder. I learned a long time ago with my early staff that I had to lead by example. My staff never saw me looking anything but professionally turned out. Even today, although I do not work in day-to-day operations, I would never dream of even stopping by one of my companies looking unprofessional. Even if I’m only dropping something off or would be there for a 15 minute meeting.

As pet care ambassadors, it’s our job to keep things looking professional. There are plenty of salons and pet businesses that fall far below the realm of professionalism in my opinion. I know the saying can be cheesy, but seriously, dress for success. Would you want to have your personal pet groomed by someone who doesn’t take pride in his or her own personal presentation?

Let’s put this in perspective. Have you ever been shopping around for a new hair stylist? What if you met her for the first time and her hair was so fried from chemicals it looked like it would break from the slightest touch? What if he smelled like he just left a smoky bar and was still wearing clothes so wrinkled you wondered if he slept in them? How confident would you be to let them style your hair? How are they going to make you look your best if they can’t be bothered to look theirs?

Would you trust a dentist who had rotten teeth?

I know it can get tiring to dress up a little every day. However, our clients are entrusting us with the care of their pets. Like it or hate it, you can easily influence their trust factor simply by the way you look when you greet your clients. Think of yourself like your own brand. Don’t you want your product to be consistent and look great? Of course! And your clients are looking for that, too.

A fashionable, well-groomed appearance is essential when it comes to professionalism in this industry. When you are in a salon, kennel, pet resort, veterinarian clinic, or mobile grooming unit, you have to look the part. Come to work each day looking crisp, clean, and pulled together. Blue jeans and sweat pants ARE NOT professional attire! Black, white, or khaki slacks work well. Longer skirts are great for women and so are skorts in warmer climates. Conservative shorts or capris may work for your environment as well. I’ve even seen leggings work when paired with an oversized, long top or smock. Look for clothing that is not prone to wrinkling or learn to iron!

Today, there are many options for hair repelling garments. There are all types of tops and bottoms in a wide variety of styles. If you work in a salon with a dress code, this may be easier. If not, have some fun with the pet styling fashions that are available. Heck, even medical scrubs will work! It may even be a good idea to keep an extra outfit or smock around the shop as a back-up.

If you get drenched or messy, a quick change will instantly boost your comfort level and mood.

And gals, remember, low-cut tops and short- shorts are never professional! If you have shorts that are too short or a top that is too revealing (especially when you are squatting down to pick up a dog), then you’re not displaying professionalism.

Don’t forget your footwear. Most pet groomers are on their feet for hours. You are standing, lifting, bending, squatting, and twisting – all day long. Although clients may not be looking at your feet, having solid, supportive footwear will promote comfort for you. Being comfortable allows you to be warm and friendly to all your clients. Supportive footwear will also enhance the longevity of your career. Over the long haul, your feet will take a beating. Don’t skimp on your footwear. Invest in the best.

Scent is a very powerful sense. When it comes to your perfume (or fragrance you put on pets) be light-handed with the spray. Many people have allergies and are sensitive to fragrance. Plus, if you have multiple staff members wearing all different scents, it can be unpleasant for all. The same can be said for your makeup and hair color. You want to appeal to a wide range of clients, so conservative is best in most cases. When in doubt, be a minimalist. Remember, you can always “be yourself” once you leave the shop.

While we are on scent – what about your breath? If you are communicating to others – clients or coworkers – bad breath is down-right offensive. Brush, floss, and use a mouth wash regularly. Not only will it save your teeth, your clients won’t be offended as you discuss what trim will work best on Fluffy. Breath mints and gum can be helpful between brushings. Lose the gum quickly once it has done its job. Chewing gum in front of clients is distracting and it is unprofessional in front of clients. The same can be said for eating and drinking on the floor. Keep snack and coffee breaks limited to behind closed doors.

Proper hygiene is crucial. It should go unsaid, but being clean and odor-free is a must. There is nothing more offensive – and embarrassing – than personal body odor. A famous quote from Zig Ziglar, who was a very successful motivational speaker, said, “People often say that motivation doesn’t last. Well, neither does bathing – that’s why we recommend it daily.” Nothing could be more true!

Your own hair needs to be clean and simply styled. If your hair is long, get it tied back and away from your face. As your work with clippers or shears, you don’t want to be trimming a lock of your own hair as you scissor that leg. I hate to think of how many people with long hair have caught their tresses in the spinning grinder as they worked. Ouch! Or worse yet, drag it through anal gland expressions, defecation, or urine.

Having a touch of jewelry is a nice finishing touch. Done well, it always reflects positively. However, just like with fragrance – go light. A few simple rings. A durable watch (you always need to know the time!!). If your ears are pierced – stick with super simple earrings, something a dog can’t accidently catch in their paw, ripping your ear lobe. If you opt for a necklace, keep it tasteful. Don’t be in love with it. Dogs will catch it in their paws and break it eventually. The same thing with is true with bracelets.

Having well-groomed fingernails is what I consider a bonus. Working with dirty dogs and trimming toenails lends itself to dirty fingernails – even if you do a lot of bathing. Trimming poodle feet has a tendency to chip fingernails. Personally, I liked to keep my nails painted. Painted fingernails will hide all sorts of flaws. Unfortunately, when you do a lot of bathing standard nail polish has a tendency to peel off quickly – sometimes as quickly as one day. My solution was to have my fingernails professionally done every 2 weeks. Both acrylic and shellac nail applications seem to hold up well to the abuse groomers put their hands through. Plus, it gives you a little time to pamper your most valuable asset – YOUR HANDS!

Pay attention to the details. Judy Hudson is one our popular Learn2GroomDogs.com Training Partners. In her video, What I Know For Sure she shares this tip: It doesn’t cost a lot to be clean. It doesn’t cost a lot of money to be neat and tidy. All it takes is a little elbow grease.

As pet care ambassadors, not only is it our job to groom pets – but it’s also our job to present a professional image for our industry.

At your place of business.
At certification test sites.
At trade shows.
On the speaking circuit.
In the competition ring.
ANYWHERE you are representing the pet grooming profession!

I don’t know any successful person that doesn’t sweat the details. Being impeccable, both personally and in your workspace, shows the client that you care about yourself. The message you are sending out is that you are confident with your skills. You are successful. You respect yourself enough to do the same for them – and their pet.

To see a perfect example of what I mean, click here.

Happy trimming!

~Melissa

Salvage Work

Spring is edging closer – and not a moment too soon! Many of us will be seeing a lot of pets that are ready for a great makeover in the coming weeks. With that in mind, I thought it was the perfect time to revisit my blog on salvage work.

As many of you know, I’m a big dog person. Working on these large furry dogs that have a huge shedding problem is one of my favorite things to do in a grooming salon. I know, I know, call me crazy – but I just love seeing the transformation in this type of job. Over the years I’ve gotten really quick with the process and rarely cringe, no matter what the size of the dog, nor the condition – I see it as a fun challenge!

My #1 rule is: Never work on a dirty dog. If water can penetrate the coat, let your products do the job.

Working on a dirty dog is not only unpleasant, but it also takes longer to do. Plus, there will be a lot of coat damage and breakage. A dirty coat is dry and brittle. The dirt and dander trapped within the fur makes it more difficult to brush out. Working on a clean coat will be easier for both you and the pet – and much more pleasant.

If there are large chunks that water cannot penetrate, go ahead and break up the tangle using the tool that is safe for the pet. Don’t worry about removing it completely, just break it apart so the water and shampoo can do its job.

Prepare your bathing area. If the dog is exceptionally dirty, use the shampoo especially designed for dirty dogs. Using a follow-up treatment of a skin and coat conditioner after bathing twice (or maybe three times in some areas) will assist with the brush out and dead coat removal during the drying process. Make sure you have all the tools you’ll need to aid in getting the dog clean like rubber curries or scrub brushes. And make sure you have plenty of towels handy. To see my video lesson on salvage work at Learn2GroomDogs.com, click here.

My favorite trick when working with this type of job is to bring my high velocity dryer right into the bathing area. With the dog fully lathered, blow the shampoo right off the pets while they are tethered in the tub. The slippery soap will allow the dirt, loose coat, and tangles slide out, being trapped in the shampoo and sticking to the back wall of the tub, minimizing the mess. Not all the shedding coat or mats will be removed but a lot will, making your job easier once you transfer to the drying table. Once you have blown out the pet, follow up with the rinsing process. Repeat this process as many times as necessary to get the dog “squeaky clean.”

Once the pet is clean and thoroughly rinsed, apply a skin and coat conditioning treatment before heading to the drying table. Read your directions: some conditioning treatments need to be rinsed out while others do not. Your high velocity dryer and a heavy slicker brush will be your best friends during the drying process.

Rule # 2: Be Methodical and Thorough

First, blow out as much moisture and loose coat at possible with the air flow. Use the highest power setting the pet is comfortable with, and a condenser cone. Once you have pushed as much water and loose fur from the pet, remove the condenser cone, and bring the air flow close to the pet’s skin. “Boost” any loose coat out of the dog by lightly patting the area where the air is striking the skin with a slicker brush.

Continue to work over the dog in a methodical manner until your brush glides through the coat easily and no more loose coat is trapped in the brush.

Rule #3 – ENJOY!

When the dog is complete, it should smell clean and fresh. The coat should be glossy and float freely as the dog moves. There should be an irresistible desire to reach down and bury your hands in a freshly groomed pet.

Happy trimming!

~ Melissa

If you’d like to see more on this topic, click here.

A Vet’s Wisdom

My husband, Marc was in Arizona for a week at a disc golf tournament. I was looking forward to a peaceful week at the farm and getting a lot of work accomplished. After all, it is February in Michigan. It’s just not that enjoyable to be outside for long periods of time unless you are really bundled up!

The weekend was wonderful. I loved being in the barn doing chores, caring for our six Friesian horses, hanging out with our four large dogs, snuggling with all the cats and filling the wood burning furnace all weekend. I thoroughly enjoyed myself.

When Monday came, my week blew apart.

Melissa and Ilene

My beloved old Friesian mare had to be put down that morning. She would have been 30 year old in May. Those of us that have had horses know there is always a “special one.” Ilene was mine.

On Tuesday, Lisa VanSweden, my artist and good friend, came to the farm to help me keep my mind off Ilene. She was going to spend the night, just hanging out, relaxing. Little did we know, we would be racing one of our beloved Maremma Sheepdogs into the pet emergency clinic with bloat late Tuesday night. We were there all night as Reagan went through emergency surgery to save his life. Marc was catching the first flight out in the morning to get home and Lisa helped keep me somewhat calm as the night wore on. I was an emotional wreck.

Running a farm is a lot of work and ours is no exception. Fortunately, we have someone who works at our farm and cares for all our critters. Tina is indispensable to Marc and me. Without someone like Tina, we could never do what we do. She helps us with all the chores associated with a farm. When we travel, she moves into the house and tends to everything in our absence. She loves and cares for our animals like they are her own.

Tina was the one who found Ilene down in her stall early on Monday. She called me immediately to come to the barn. For the last two years, we had known that Ilene had been running on borrowed time. We also knew that if she went down, she would never get up.

Marc and Reagan

When Tina learned that Reagan was in emergency surgery Tuesday night, she stayed up the rest of the night. We texted updates and surgery reports back and forth until we knew the surgery was successful.

On Wednesday, with eyes blurry from a serious lack of sleep, Tina told this tale to Lisa VanSweden and me. We loved it. I know if you are reading this blog, you are an animal lover and will love it, as well.

Two weeks previously, Tina had to put down her beloved Beagle mix. She found it very helpful to recall these wise words from an old-time vet long ago.

Over 20 years ago, I sat sobbing quietly in the vet’s office. I told the vet, “Please don’t let this puppy die, I just can’t lose him.” Then, this older, gruff vet, who was not known for a good bedside manner, did something very unexpected and unforgettable. He pulled up a chair, sat directly in front of me, took my chin in his hand and said, “Young lady, look at me.”

When I looked up, his expression was soft and kind. His eyes glistened with unshed tears. He said, as best as I can remember, “Raising, having, and loving animals is hard work and heartbreaking. Their life span is nowhere near ours. If you have them, most likely you’re going to have them die. There’s accidents, injuries, diseases, or if you’re lucky, just plain old age. Now that’s life. No amount of care, precaution, love, or medicine can change that. There’s nothing a loving owner, a skilled vet, or anyone can do to stop it. Now death isn’t pretty or easy, and at times it is brutal and just plain awful. Sometimes, as an owner you are forced to make a decision that relieves their suffering and that’s always a tough call. Now I know you love this puppy just like you loved Bear. I will do all I can, but I can’t promise he will make it. Now if you really just can’t handle that – and there’s no shame if you can’t – I suggest you get out of having animals. Everything that lives – dies. It isn’t easy and you never really get used to it. I’ve lost and had to put down many, and sometimes even I still get emotional. You just have to decide if all the love and joy they bring to your life is worth the heartbreak.”

And with that, he stood up, put the chair back, and said, “I’ll call you in the morning and let you know if he made it through the night.”

Well, that beautiful, sweet puppy lived and went on to bring joy to the whole family for over 13 years. He grew up with my kids and was loved by all that knew him. The vet never showed his soft side again, but at one visit a few years later, this time with a horse, he did look at me with a wink and said, “You made the right choice. There are lots of animals that could use the amount of love and care you give them.”

After Annie passed away, and with the events of this week, I have reflected back on that advice and all of the great furry friends I have been privileged to know. I’ve learned to smile through the tears and embrace the memories, and never question my decision to keep them a part of my life.

Such wonderful wisdom. No amount of sorrow will ever keep me from having animals in my life. The joy they bring far outweighs their passing. I will always do my best to keep pets safe, healthy, comfortable, and happy.

I, like Tina, have never questioned my decision to make them such a large part of my life.

~Melissa

Making the Most of a Seminar

With the Atlanta Pet Fair just around the corner, I thought it would be a good time to revisit one of my favorite topics: getting the most out of a seminar.

When you attend trade shows and clinics, preparing in advance can help you make the most of this experience. Seminars are a great way to improve your skills and recharge your batteries. Meeting your mentors and soaking up their knowledge is a fantastic opportunity, and if you can see and hear them in action, it maximizes the experience. When you know what you need and what you hope to get out of the session, you can better prepare yourself to squeeze out as much as you can from your time together.

1. Step into the session with a very open mind.

If you are young and fresh to the industry, the amount of information that you get can be intimidating. Listen, take notes, and soak up every bit of knowledge that you can. Sometimes that may mean suspending what you know in order to make room for something new. Trying new techniques or ideas can be uncomfortable just because you’ve never tried it before. Keeping an open mind enables you to break from your routine to get different results. With time and practice, the awkwardness goes away and you become more efficient. Remember: having more tools, techniques, and knowledge allows you to have multiple approaches to a problem.

2. Make efficient use of the time available.

Many trainers at these sessions have limited time. They are often rushing from one obligation to another – judging competitions, speaking in seminars, or providing hands-on clinics. If they can, many will take the time to answer your questions. If you know what you need to ask, it helps you make the best use of the brief time you may have together. Be prepared – write down your questions in advance so you don’t forget something important or stumble over your words. Being ready to participate in the learning experience helps you make the best use of the session – and the presenter will respect you for it.

3. Don’t be nervous – plan ahead.

With so much to see and do at trade shows, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed. Break out the catalog and study the floor plan before you arrive. Map out your plan of attack to make sure you get to everything you need to see. Some shows have free apps you can download to help make the most out of your experience. Know the schedule of events so you don’t miss that speaker you’ve been hoping to see. Sometimes it’s good to go to shows like this with a friend – divide and conquer, then compare notes later.

As your knowledge and skills advance, the clinics won’t be as daunting. They will become a great way for you to fine-tune your skills. You can begin to network and exchange thoughts with others in the industry who can provide insight when you need it. Plus, these types of functions are a great way to invigorate your career.

These principles remain valid for many forms of advanced learning in the pet grooming industry. Maybe you don’t have the opportunity to do a hands-on training session. There is a wealth of information to learn from these all-star pet stylists. You might be in the audience at a trade show, pet grooming competition or watching a grooming video lesson featuring one of these top stylists. The better you can execute the core skills with your everyday grooming, the easier it will be to successfully transfer their lessons to your own grooming table.

If you are not as accomplished as these award-winning and highly successful pet groomers are — take note. You can learn a lot from their well-developed skills. Learning new skills, tips, and tricks make grooming pets all that more fun!

Click here to see a seminar in action!

Happy Trimming!

~ Melissa

What do YOU want most from a seminar?

7 Qualities of High Quality Pet Stylists

I’ve been working within the pet grooming industry for a very long time. Frightfully, probably long before many of you were even born. I feel very fortunate to be surrounded by top end pet stylists, especially in the past 5 years being on the film set of Learn2GroomDogs.com. All of our 40+ Training Partners are at the top of their game. They are simply some of the best professional pet stylists in the world.

As I work beside these talented stylists, I’ve seen a few very common threads. Outstanding pet stylists are tenacious. They push themselves constantly by developing a deeper understanding of the grooming process:

any type of dog (or cat)
with any coat type
of any size
using any technique

Then add in:

many times the pets are in poor condition
the pets often have a less than perfect temperament and the stylists still get the job done well

These exceptional pet stylists don’t entertain frustration. They have the ability to see through the dirty, messy mound of fur. They see the potential of what could be. With their ever growing set of skills, they see beauty of what the finished product could be – not what is on the grooming table before the process begins (for more on this topic, read my blog, Begin with the End in Mind). They feel the creative challenge calling their name. The only question left in their minds is not IF they can do it – but HOW they will accomplish the task in a safe and comfortable manner for the pet.

Here are seven qualities I’ve seen in almost all high-quality pet stylists:

Appreciation of Knowledge

High-quality pet stylists know, the more you learn – the more you want to learn and the more you will earn. Building a strong foundation of knowledge insures that you will always do the best work possible. As your knowledge base improves, you will immediately be able to apply that knowledge to every pet you groom. Even if it’s a #7 shave off, a knowledgeable pet stylist will always try to improve the dog’s appeal. They draw upon a vast array of learning experiences to complete a task – and most of it is not learned in school!

Value High Quality Products & Tools

High-quality pet stylists know their products and tools will make or break them. If the shampoo does not leave the coat squeaky clean, you will never get a quality finish on the coat. Coats need to be dried with the correct type of dryer using the correct method for optimum coat preparation. It’s impossible to produce a velvet finish with dull blades or shears. It does not matter what product or tool we are discussing. High-quality pet stylists know they need to invest in the best. Period.

Firmly Understand Time is Money

High-quality pet stylists know time is money. There are always options for the pet based on the condition of the coat, the pet’s temperament, the amount of time you have on your schedule, and the amount of money the client is willing to spend. High-quality pet stylists instantly know how to weigh out the variables and select the best option.

Self Confidence

High-quality pet stylists are confident in their abilities. Yet, at the same token they are humble. Even though they’re highly confident they know there is still room for personal growth. They freely share their knowledge with others while they continue to build their skills to an even higher level.

Understand Canine and/or Feline Psychology

High-quality pet stylists are keen observers. They understand canine and feline body language. Animals are pretty transparent when it comes to their behavior. There are always clues to an animal’s behavior, even if it is subtle. A high-quality pet stylist will always try to gain the trust and understanding of the pet they are working on.

Compassion for the Pet

High-quality pet stylists are compassionate to the needs of the pet. They understand each pet is an individual. They all have different tolerances to standard grooming and practices. High-quality pet stylists will always live by the Golden Rule – maintaining a calm, cool, and collected composure at all times.

Always Push to Improve

High-quality pet stylists always push themselves to improve. Once they have mastered one technique, one skill, one breed, they always know there’s more to learn just around the corner. Learning and improving is a never ending journey.

Outstanding pet stylists are humble, talented, practical, and passionate – sincere with exceptional character. They go after the goal of being the best they can be and they don’t give up. For them, there is always room for improvement. They raise the bar for themselves and set new and better standards for our industry.

What skills would you like to hone to become the best you can possibly be?

Happy Trimming!

-Melissa

2015 Westminster Dog Show is Right Around the Corner

For many people, watching the Super Bowl is a highlight of their sports viewing. Me? Not so much. I’m honestly not that interested in football. Sorry. However, mention the Westminster Kennel Club dog show and my eyes light up.

Guess what? It’s right around the corner and I can’t wait! The 2015 dog show airs on TV February 16th and 17th. This is always an annual event for me. Although I’ve never been to the show personally, it’s a fabulous learning event for me. I spend the evening glued to my big screen TV like most football enthusiasts do for a playoff game.

As a professional pet groomer, I’m a visual learner – probably just like you. I find one of the best ways to learn about my trade is to see it. The Westminster annual show is a great way to learn about the breeds, especially the new ones!

Every year the American Kennel Club accepts new breeds into the registry. In the past decade, it’s been hard to keep up. Since I wrote Notes From the Grooming Table in 2004, the AKC has added almost 60 new breeds! That’s a lot of new pooches for us pet professionals to recognize.

And are they slowing down? One look at the AKC Foundation Stock Service registry tells you – no. Currently there are almost 30 breeds and development that have not been accepted into the American Kennel Club – yet. Some of the candidates in this group are totally new breeds. Others are ancient breeds relatively unknown outside their local areas around the globe.

At one time I prided myself in being able to identify and instantly recognize most breeds registered by the AKC. Not anymore. Plus, many of the newer breeds have names that are hard to remember let alone pronounce! I have to continue to really pay attention and study the new breeds coming onto the scene.

Luckily for me, and you, many of the new breeds are represented at Westminster. They’re exceptional specimens and very well presented. Generally, the camerawork is excellent as the dog struts around the ring. I can get a great idea of the size of the breed and coat type. By seeing the dog, I get a great awareness of how to groom these new additions to their breed profile. I have to really pay attention though. Many times I record the show so if I want to review a specific breed again, I can.

Take advantage of this great learning tool. The 139th annual Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show is taking place at Madison Square Garden in New York City February 16th & 17th. There are 2711 dogs entered in this year’s event. Check your local listings for television viewing on CBS and USA Network for the Group Classes on Monday and Tuesday nights. Best In Show airs on Tuesday evening once the Group Classes have concluded. If you want to watch individual breeds show, check out the breed rings at www.westminsterkennelclub.org or via the Westminster app on your mobile device.

The NEW Learn2GroomDogs.com is Here!

The wait is finally over! The NEW Learn2GroomDogs.com site opens today. We hope to see you there!

Why Should You Trim the Pads of the Feet?

I’m a stickler on this. I simply hate seeing sloppy feet on a pet. Why?

Maybe because I have four big, furry dogs and I live on a farm. I know first-hand the more fur left in the pads of my pooches spells dirt and discomfort depending on the time of year here in Michigan. Or maybe it’s because in order to provide a quality pet grooms to clients – quality lays in the details. Details like getting the feet clean – really clean.

Let’s face it – once a dog is at home, the pet spends a lot of time snoozing. The feet are totally exposed, and so is your work. In my book, there simply is no excuse for messy feet. The process hardly takes any time when using the right tools and techniques.

Before we dig into the “how” to get perfect feet in a snap, let’s look at the “why” it’s important not to miss this area in the grooming process.

Health of Pet

Mats can cause discomfort between the toes and pads.
Mats and excessive coat between the pads traps moisture, causing skin irritation.
In winter climates, excessive coat causes ice and salt buildup between the pads and toes.
Excessive coat hides burrs, thorns, tar, gum, and a wide range of items that can be uncomfortable to the pet.

Cleanliness

A clean foot pad does not track as much dirt and mud into an owner’s home.

Visual

Trimming accentuates the proper foot type.
Clean, neat pads present a “finished picture” of a well-groomed pet.

TRIMMING THE PADS

Clipping the pads should take between 10 and 30 seconds per foot, depending on the size and attitude of the pet.

The blades used on most pets will range from a #15 to a #40. With any blade option, remember to always use a light touch as you clip. No heavy pressure and no digging into the foot pad.

Hold the clipper like a pencil. This will allow you the most flexibility in your wrist in most cases. Occasionally, an overhand grip on your clipper with give you a better range of motion depending on your position. Use the hold that allows you the most flexibility.

Following a routine will enhance speed and efficiency. Personally, I always like to start with a rear foot. By starting on a rear foot, you can note any adverse reaction the pet has to the handling its feet. If the pet demonstrates discomfort or aggression, you are in a better position to address the situation safely.

Lift the foot only high enough to get the job done. Most of the time this will be 4 inches or less from the tabletop. Anything higher than that could make the pet uncomfortable while you clip. Keep the foot as low to the table as you can and still be able to clip freely. The lower – the better. This will ensure both the pet’s comfort and safety – and yours – should the pet become unruly or try to bite.

When asking the dog to pick up its foot – start by sliding your hand down the pet’s leg, with your thumb and first finger closest to the table. As you approach the foot, gently lift and let your thumb and first finger rest flush with the pet’s foot pad. Holding the foot in this manner gives you the most control over the pet and reduces the risk of trimming up into the side coat of the foot. It also allows you to use your fingers as a brace to remove stubborn excessive coat from around the foot.

Keeping the clipper blade flush with the foot pad, lightly start clipping at the nail bed of the center two digits. Make a pass over the entire pad of the foot while barely making contact with the pads. The second pass should focus on the outside digits and then repeat the process on the opposite outside digits. At this point, all the excessive coat should be removed from the foot pad. (The outside of many foot pads can be “edged” at the same time.)

Finish the procedure by clipping between the large heel pad and the digit pads. Spread the foot slightly with one hand and make two soft bouncing motions into the crevice area. On the second bounce, follow through and gently scoop the excessive hair out of the way. Repeat on the other side of the foot pad. If the foot is heavily coated, rotate clippers and repeat the soft bounce and follow-through action from the opposite direction. Do not dig into the crevice if the fur does not come out easily. Gently spread the crevice apart and work at the difficult area with a light touch. (This is normally a very large mat that will have skin irritation under the matting.)

On smaller pets, you will remain in one spot as you move from one foot to another on the pet. Start with one back foot, then move to the opposite back foot. Next, proceed to the front foot nearest you. Finally, reach over the pet and trim the opposite front foot. On a larger pet, you will need to move your position slightly. Try to minimize how much you move while working from foot to foot. You will follow the same procedure for the smaller pet, except that you will reach under the dog to get to the off foot or ask them to sit and reach over them for the off foot.

The foot pads may be trimmed before or after the bath. There are pros and cons as to which procedure is best. If you trim the pads before the bath, you will not have to wash and dry the coat. The negative side is that you will have clipped through a very dirty coat that will act like sand paper on your blade. Waiting until after the bath allows you to work on a clean coat, which makes clipping easier and prolongs the life of your blade. In either case, the finish work cannot be started, nor the job properly completed, until the pads are trimmed and clean.

To learn how to apply the proper pressure to the blade while clipping the pads, practice on your own hand. Feel how much pressure is comfortable to you. With the clipper turned off, rotate and move it over your own fingers. This will teach you how to manipulate it in difficult areas. If it’s comfortable on your skin, it will be comfortable to the pet. When clipping a pet, always monitor the heat of the blade for safety and comfort.

As a professional pet groomer, time is money. Details count, even if it’s the bottom of the dog’s feet. Paying attention to the details also ensures you will have a loyal stream of repeat clients every week.

Happy trimming,

-Melissa

P.S.

[youtube]http://youtu.be/2yXBGGfBd44[/youtube]

Introducing the ALL NEW Learn2Groomdogs.com Website!

It’s a new look – AND MORE!

In 2010, we were thrilled to announce the launch of Learn2GroomDogs.com. It was something brand new to the pet grooming industry – an online library that streamed videos right to your computer, phone, or device. We opened our cyber doors with 60 videos and were thrilled with the response from professional and amateur groomers, alike.

Fast forward four years later and Learn2GroomDogs.com has over 500 videos – and we’re still growing!

Now we invite you to see our biggest surprise, yet… our brand new, completely reconstructed website with amazing features created just for you!

It’s beautiful and easy to use!

We wanted you to love looking at the site. It needed to be fresh and inviting, with crisp colors and beautiful photos.

The layout needed to be fun and functional with a logical format so you can navigate easily.

We wanted all of our information to be fun as well as informative. You’re our guests, so to make you feel more welcome, we loosened up a little and had some fun. We think you’ll like our new style!

Wait until you see our new Search feature!

We know how hard it was to find what you needed, so we really dug deep to make this the best feature. We’re thrilled with the capabilities of our new site. e

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There is so much more to see and experience – it’s impossible to tell you about everything. Try it and see for yourself. You’re going to love the new Learn2GroomDogs.com!

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Time = Money in a Pet Grooming Salon

Time is money in our business. Sure, we love pets. I don’t know anyone who gets involved in this career who isn’t passionate about animals. Still – time is money. And in this fast paced world, it never seems any of us have enough of either!

My goal is always to turn a small to medium-sized pet in an hour or less; bathe, dry, haircut, and/or finish-work on a bath and brush style pet.

If you are not turning at least a dog an hour, you have an issue somewhere in your routine.

Here are some ideas/methods that allow seasoned pet professionals to hit that goal. Take a read and see if you can identify ideas you can try to help increase your speed in the grooming department. The times given are for small to medium-sized pets.

Prep-Work: 5 – 15 minutes

Get the dog to the tub as quickly as possible. In the case of a 6 week or less small pet, 5 minutes would be enough time to do the nails, ears, and privates.
On a six-week or more pet, you may take up to 15 minutes to do the prep work. Quickly knock off the bulk of the coat to minimize wash and dry time. But still, no more than 15 minutes.
Leave loose matting alone. Soap, lather, conditioners, and high velocity dryers are magic on a clean coat. It will be much easier to remove in the bath and blow out stage.
If water cannot penetrate the mat or tangled coat, it needs to be removed prior to bathing.
Notice trouble areas whether it be dirt, oil, or matting. Pay attention to those areas when you move through the grooming process and handle them when it would be most effective.

Bathing Time: 5 – 10 minutes

Let gravity do the work when wetting a dog down. For smaller dogs, stand them up and let the water run from their shoulders.
Don’t worry about getting them TOTALLY soaked if you dilute your shampoo. Diluting shampoo allows for the water to act as a distributing agent of the shampoo, allowing for even saturation.
If you are working with a shampoo dilution ratio of 15:1 or more – skip wetting the dog down all together prior to applying shampoo. Just apply the shampoo and water together at the same time.
Apply shampoo in the same order, every time. Let gravity do the work. Start at the back, down the legs, under the tail, ears, and face.
Use a scrub brush or a rubber curry on very dirty dogs . This works well in exceptionally dirty areas to enhance speed, thoroughness, and ease of cleaning.
If washing twice, don’t worry about getting every trace of shampoo from the coat on the first rinse, only enough to remove the bulk of the dirt build-up.
If dealing with exceptionally dirty areas, let ‘em soak a bit before you handle them. Coated faces often have hardened food in them. Tackling them before the food has time to soften causes you too much work and discomfort for the pet. Use a bristled brush, toothbrush, or even a slicker brush for really tough, stuck in food particles.
If dealing with major mats, utilize a slicker brush in the tub. Just be sure to protect the skin while brushing through the matted coat. The shampoo will aid in making the coat slippery, much like getting a stubborn ring off a finger.
Use the correct shampoo for the job, especially in the “problem areas.”
Utilize some sort of squeegee to aid in the speedy and thorough removal of shampoo.
If the coat does not feel “squeaky clean,” it’s not rinsed well enough. Double check the area for soap residue or cleanness. Unclean coats appear oily when dry and will never allow for a quality finish in the final product. Soap residue can also lead to skin irritation.
Have a routine that you use to wash every dog and follow it every time. Repeating the same method EVERY TIME builds consistency, effectiveness, thoroughness, and speed.

Drying Time: 5 – 10 minutes

Squeegee and squeeze as much excessive water off as possible in the tub.
Utilize a towel magnet to take off the majority of the moisture.
Use a second towel to wrap the pet. Hold off on areas that do not lend themselves to wrapping. You will not be as effective as possible if there is any water dripping off any portion of the pet, feet, ears, tail, etc. You will also be ineffective if there is a visible spray of water coming off the pet when you do use the high velocity dryer with a condensing cone.
Turn on your dryer to let it come up to running temperature a few minutes prior to drying the pet.
If the pet is new to you or seems nervous, introduce the pet to the dryer slowly.
Once the pet has accepted the dryer, start at either the base of the tail or the withers. Where you start depends on how you want to set up the coat for finish work. Blow the coat so that it lies close to the skin (example: many Terrier or Sporting dogs) or fluffed up for clipper work (most haircut type trims). Next, move to the legs and finally the chest. If the dog allows it, work the head quickly as well. Go over the entire pet first with a condensing cone to remove loose water. Cover every inch of the pet in this manner. If there is a fair amount of moisture still retained in the coat during this process, hold a towel just ahead of where you are working to catch the spray, minimizing how much moisture is passed on to other areas.
If you are dealing with a curly coated dog, leave the condensing cone on to straighten the coat out, working the shortest areas first, moving into the longer areas and finishing with the head, ears, and tail. Do not move out of a small area until the coat is perfectly dry and fluffed.
If dealing with a shedding dog or a slightly matted dog, leave the condensing cone on, working in the same order as described earlier. Once the bulk of the moisture is removed, start again at the rump and work small areas until dry and loose coat is no longer coming out. Keep the air flow as close to the body as possible without folding the coat back onto itself.
If dealing with mats or tangles, use the force of the air to move the mats away from the skin. Stay in one area and move the air slightly, pushing the mats out. Watch the area closes to monitor the progress. It will look like a spider web as you loosen the tangle.
If dealing with a slightly wavy or straight coated dog, once the bulk of the moisture is removed, remove the condensing cone and hold the nozzle right next to the skin allowing for maximum temperature and lift of the coat.
If the pet has a long, shedding type coat, remove the condensing cone and place the air close to the pet’s body. Use a heavy brush where the air is flowing to “boost” the rest of the loose, spider webbed, coat out of the pet.
If dealing with longer coat that will need to be scissored or trimmed with a long guard attachment, “stretch drying” will be needed for additional lift and straightening of the coat. Use a heat dryer and a brush. With very light and rapid strokes, brush only where the air is blowing on the pet. Work against the grain if lift is needed for fullness. Work with the grain if a close lying coat is desired. Use caution – too much heat applied to an area can be painful or even burn the pet. In many cases, only sections will need to be attended to in this manner for optimum quality.
If you noticed mats still in the coat, finish with stretch drying the areas. Utilizing a heavy brush. Use line brushing techniques from the toes up the leg. Work with very small sections at a time and keeping the touch of the brush very light. Rapidly pat and pull the coat where the air is flowing over the area. Very little heat is needed for this method.

Clipping Time: 20 – 30

You are never done clipping until there is not anymore coat coming off when the coat is properly set up.
Three pass passes over the pet and you should have the coat super smooth… anything less than that will reduce time.
Minimize the amount of movement around the pet. Arrange the pet on the table so that the loop is taut but not tight. Place a small pet crosswise on the table minimizing groomer stretch and maximizing comfort.
Start your clipper work by standing behind the dog and pull the clippers towards you starting from the neck or withers. If you are reverse clipping, reverse the process by starting at the rear or the dog and work towards the head.
Handle the bulk of the body first, including the underside if that is to be clipped as well.
Lift the pet from the haunches to effectively get the undercarriage while still standing behind the pet.
Move to the side of the pet and work the neck and shoulder areas. Return to the rear of the pet and back brush the entire dog. Repeat process a second time. Back brush once again and check for high spots or rough spots.

Attitude

Work methodically; be friendly but aloof with the pet. Correct any undesirable action before it becomes a major problem. Accept what you cannot correct and work with it in a calm, cool, and collected manner. Once the job is complete, they you can snuggle with the pet and let it know how much you enjoy your job.
Always remember the “Three Cs” – Calm, Cool, and Collected. Whenever you forget them, you are wasting time and energy.

Just like pennies add up to dollars, seconds add up to minutes and hours. Anywhere you can save time without making a major sacrifice in safety or quality, it’s a skill or technique worth learning.

The most indispensable thing any of us can have it time; when it’s gone, it’s gone – never to be retrieved.

Here is a graphic breakdown of how long each phase of grooming should take. Print off a copy and keep one by your work station to help keep you on track. Click here to download the PDF: Time Frames for Procedures.

Happy trimming,

~Melissa

P.S.

Click here to see the latest video available on Learn2GroomDogs.com.

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It’s a new look – AND MORE!

It’s beautiful and easy to use!

Wait until you see our new Search feature!

Search by Category

Search by Expert

Search by Breed

Try it for yourself!

Coming to you in January 2015!

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